During World War II, jewelry material supplies were minimal. Jewelers used whatever loose gems and metals they could find, creating retro pieces that were chunky, sculpted and three-dimensional. Gems that were used for old-fashioned pieces were broken down and reused for modern pieces. Spanish crown jewels were broken down and the stones were sold separately.
The retro movement was categorized by Francois Curiel, head of Christie’s jewelry department. He named the era for customers who requested jewelry with the Retro look. His realization of this era brought great popularity and prestige to retro jewelry, resulting in the increase in value and price to these designs.
The Retro style used chunky gemstones that were raised and three-dimensional. Retro jewelry was often seen in multi-colored metals because of the restrictions on platinum and scarcity of other metals. Semi-precious stones were common, due to a large abundance in South America during the war.
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Also, the production of synthetic rubies and sapphires were high because of wartime taxes on luxury items. Romantic motifs such as ribbons and ruffles were worn on jewelry instead of on clothing. Size counted during the Retro era, using large rectangular gems and three-dimensional rings, bracelets and necklaces. Patriotic themes and colors were used widely, as a symbol of patriotism to those at war. The Retro style was alluring, elegant and sophisticated.
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